To see dolphins in their natural habitat is a special
thrill. We have become so familiar with
seeing them in captivity that we have forgotten that the vast ocean is really
their home. Over the course of our two
days in Ho’okeena we had the good fortune to see pairs of them twisting and
spinning out of the surf on several occasions while we sat on the beach or
frolicked at the waters edge. As we
finished breakfast on our final day at Ho’okeena, a pod of spinner dolphins came
carousing into the cove like a bunch of frat boys returning from a night
out.
Rebecca, ever ready for an
adventure, instantly donned her swimsuit and swam out to the general vicinity. Keeping a safe distance so as not to disturb
their relaxation, she was able to observe for nearly an hour while the pod circled
slowly back and forth less than twenty yards beneath her. She was most impressed with how the dolphins
touched fins as they swam. Watching them
this way gave her the thrill of a lifetime and she got some great photos as
well.
After that excitement, we said goodbye to Ho’okeena, and drove
south for Pu’uhonua o Honaunau and the Place of Refuge. The former was one of the most important
residences of the royal chiefs and it was particularly relaxing to sit under
the shade of the swaying palms on this hot day.
The Place of Refuge, located across a narrow inlet of water from the
palace, was a safe haven for defeated warriors or noncombatants who had broken
a sacred law and who must pay with their life.
If the offender could make it to the place of refuge before being caught,
a ceremony of absolution would be performed and he or she could return home
safely.
While we sat in the shade cast by the great stone wall that
encircled the shelter and contemplated the bay, we could see a passel of snorkelers
just past the boat launch. Checking the
guidebook, we realized this was Honaunau Bay, one of the premier snorkeling
spots on the island. After wolfing down delicious
roasted vegetable sandwiches we had purchased from a nearby deli, we changed
into our swim suits and splashed out into the protected cove. After checking out many colorful and oddly
shaped fish which I was beginning to be able to name on sight, my wife tugged
at my sleeve. I followed her direction
and was amazed to see a pod of eight dolphins cruising together silently below
us. We watched together, my wife’s
second dolphin swim of the day, pleased with this unexpected treat.
When we finally reached, Punalu’u Beach Park, it was late
afternoon. One of the draws of the Big
Island is its beaches – and in particular, the uniqueness of its black sand
beaches. Black sand beaches are formed
when hot lava travels downhill to the sea, shatters as it is quenched by the water,
and then is pulverized over time by the ocean.
Punalu’u on the southwest side of
the island is one of the most accessible black sand beaches, and has the added
bonus of being a popular spot for green sea turtles to beach themselves.
There were only a handful of visitors to the beach, and no
other campers, when we pulled in. After selecting
the choicest camping spot, we walked the short distance to the beach and found a
cluster of turtles like corpses along the tideline. As the tide rose, the cold water seemed to
wake them from the dead. However, even
sea turtles move very slowly, and after several found their way back to sea to
feed, we walked back to Mahana Pu’u, admiring the clear night and huddling together
against the cool breeze.
Later that night, as the kids slept snuggled down into their blankets, my wife and I sat outside Mahana Pu’u under a full moon and listened as the surf drummed its age old beat against the rocky shore. We felt very lucky as we finally closed the door of Mahana Pu’u for the night and enjoyed the warmth of our island home.
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