Day Seven – South Point to Green Sand Beach to Volcanoes National Park

We had to back-track a little to get to South Point, the southernmost point in the United States.  It was a pleasant ride along a one-lane paved road to a cliff overlooking the sea where there isn’t much to do but take pictures to show you’d been there.   Along the way we passed solitary houses painted into endless fields.  It’s not hard to imagine the solidarity of those who call this vast plain home.  

The strong winds at South Point blew us sideways

 Just east of South Point is Mahana Beach, also known as Green Sand Beach.  This one of a kind beach owes its color to a semi-precious gem called Olivine.  Thick veins of the stuff contained in ancient eruptions ended at the ocean, which continues to dismantle it into sand particles.  Because the dirt road to the beach is full of deep ruts and requires a 4WD vehicle, we left Mahana Pu’u and walked the two miles to a cliff overlooking the horseshoe shaped cove.  We scrambled down a well-trodden path to the shore for pictures, and were reminded of the unpredictability of the ocean when a wave raced up to our ankles while we had our backs turned.  Chastened, and wet, we hopped in the back of a local’s pickup truck for a bouncy ride back to the makeshift parking lot.

Maya and I on the hike to the Green Sand

We finally arrived at Volcanoes National Park campground and grilled our dinner.  We had only managed one shower during our week on the road, a blessedly warm one at Ho’okeena Beach, and rinsing off with warm water from the restroom sink felt like quite an indulgence.    

Afterwards, we hiked the short distance to Jagger Museum to view exhibits on the history of the park and information about the different volcanic eruptions.  As night fell, we moved to the Kilauea Caldera overlook adjacent to the museum.  At the time we visited, the caldera had a hole the size of three football fields filled with a lava lake.  Although the lava is not visible from the overlook, because it was a clear night, we could see the fiery glow light the sky like a flashlight with red cellophane covering the lens. 

 

Camping at Volcanoes National Park

To view actual lava flows from Pu’u O’o vent, which has been slowly oozing lava since 1983, required a strenuous hike outside the park boundaries at the time of our visit.  Instead, we set out for Kileaua I’ki crater early the next morning.  This outstanding hike winds gently through a tropical rainforest before descending steeply to the other-worldly crater floor of Kileaua Iki, which erupted for 36 days in 1959.  Now, the natural stillness of crater, with steam escaping through cracks in the lava floor, is an eerie reminder that there is nothing like this back home.   

There was a lot left to discover in the park, but the four-mile hike tested both the limits of our kids and of our time.  As we scrambled up the last incline to the parking lot and a waiting Mahana Pu’u, we had just enough time to high-tail down Mauna Loa to Hilo for a hasty drop-off at the garage and shuttle to the airport.  It wasn’t until we were settled into our seats that our accomplishment, mixed with melancholy, set in.  It had been another eventful day in a week full of memories.   

In the crater

 As the plane rose and the lush river valleys of Hilo moved out of view, I remembered the guidebooks that cautioned not to forego these eastern-side treasures.  In our rush to get to camp on that first day, I recalled, that is exactly what we had done.   

With the size of the island, and the variety of things to do at every turn, there just hadn’t been enough time to do it all.  Turning my eyes from the window, I met my wife’s smile from across the aisle.  I was grateful to have made and shared these memories with her and our children, but I knew that we had left a lot of memories behind.  And that we would be coming back to collect them.

Day Six – Ho’oKeena Beach to Punalu’uu Beach

To see dolphins in their natural habitat is a special thrill.  We have become so familiar with seeing them in captivity that we have forgotten that the vast ocean is really their home.  Over the course of our two days in Ho’okeena we had the good fortune to see pairs of them twisting and spinning out of the surf on several occasions while we sat on the beach or frolicked at the waters edge.  As we finished breakfast on our final day at Ho’okeena, a pod of spinner dolphins came carousing into the cove like a bunch of frat boys returning from a night out.   

Rebecca, ever ready for an adventure, instantly donned her swimsuit and swam out to the general vicinity.  Keeping a safe distance so as not to disturb their relaxation, she was able to observe for nearly an hour while the pod circled slowly back and forth less than twenty yards beneath her.  She was most impressed with how the dolphins touched fins as they swam.  Watching them this way gave her the thrill of a lifetime and she got some great photos as well.  

After that excitement, we said goodbye to Ho’okeena, and drove south for Pu’uhonua o Honaunau and the Place of Refuge.  The former was one of the most important residences of the royal chiefs and it was particularly relaxing to sit under the shade of the swaying palms on this hot day.  The Place of Refuge, located across a narrow inlet of water from the palace, was a safe haven for defeated warriors or noncombatants who had broken a sacred law and who must pay with their life.  If the offender could make it to the place of refuge before being caught, a ceremony of absolution would be performed and he or she could return home safely.  

While we sat in the shade cast by the great stone wall that encircled the shelter and contemplated the bay, we could see a passel of snorkelers just past the boat launch.  Checking the guidebook, we realized this was Honaunau Bay, one of the premier snorkeling spots on the island.  After wolfing down delicious roasted vegetable sandwiches we had purchased from a nearby deli, we changed into our swim suits and splashed out into the protected cove.  After checking out many colorful and oddly shaped fish which I was beginning to be able to name on sight, my wife tugged at my sleeve.  I followed her direction and was amazed to see a pod of eight dolphins cruising together silently below us.  We watched together, my wife’s second dolphin swim of the day, pleased with this unexpected treat. 

When we finally reached, Punalu’u Beach Park, it was late afternoon.  One of the draws of the Big Island is its beaches – and in particular, the uniqueness of its black sand beaches.  Black sand beaches are formed when hot lava travels downhill to the sea, shatters as it is quenched by the water, and then is pulverized over time by the ocean.   Punalu’u on the southwest side of the island is one of the most accessible black sand beaches, and has the added bonus of being a popular spot for green sea turtles to beach themselves.  

There were only a handful of visitors to the beach, and no other campers, when we pulled in.  After selecting the choicest camping spot, we walked the short distance to the beach and found a cluster of turtles like corpses along the tideline.  As the tide rose, the cold water seemed to wake them from the dead.  However, even sea turtles move very slowly, and after several found their way back to sea to feed, we walked back to Mahana Pu’u, admiring the clear night and huddling together against the cool breeze.  

 
Later that night, as the kids slept snuggled down into their blankets, my wife and I sat outside Mahana Pu’u under a full moon and listened as the surf drummed its age old beat against the rocky shore.  We felt very lucky as we finally closed the door of Mahana Pu’u for the night and enjoyed the warmth of our island home.

Day Five - Ho’okeena Beach

Ho'okeena Beach at sunset

We woke at the beach and spent all day building sandcastles and riding waves.  Several times green sea turtles swam past while we floated in the cool water.  The configuration of the swimming area was such that a wave would occasionally ricochet back at us off the base of the cliff.  My daughter coined these “sidewaves” and we had fun looking over our shoulders so we weren’t caught off guard.  We took lessons from a local boy on how best to use our boogie boards to maximize the ride, and although the waves paled in comparison to those at Hapuna Beach, we barely left the water all day.

 

After dinner, as we sat looking at the surf and listening to a group of locals strumming guitars while the sun made its way to the horizon, my daughter mentioned that we hadn’t done anything all day except swim.  I told her, this is what it’s like to be a beach bum. 

Day Four - Spencer Beach to Ho’okeena Beach

Enjoying a shave ice

We expected the normal sibling squabbling, and it was exacerbated a bit by the close proximity with which the kids had to sit, sleep, and live each day.  But overall, they had been pretty well-behaved.  They had even expressed some interest in Kamehameha, perhaps because it is a fun name to say.  So we were pleased to learn that one of the more important cultural sites was right next door to our Spencer Beach camp. 

Kamehameha was instructed by the Gods to build Pu’ukohola Heiau (a heiau is akin to a shrine) as a tribute in his quest to conquer all the islands.  His chief rival was the first human sacrifice at the Heiau, and later, when a volcano spewed forth and engulfed a rival army, the masses could not deny Kamehameha was to be king.  We watched a short movie at the visitor center about Kamehameha’s life and learned to play Konane, a traditional Hawaiian game like checkers.

Maya, Queen of Konane

Afterwards we drove south from Kona, hugging the shoreline so closely the waves seemed like they could crash across the road in front of us.  Eventually, the road began to climb the sides of Mauna Loa volcano to a series of towns that produce the world acclaimed Kona coffee.  Not being avid coffee drinkers, we decided to pass on taking one of the many advertised farm tours and instead listened to our happy songs and kept an eye on the stunning views that the winding country road offered from this elevation.  

When we eventually made our turn-off, we descended on a deserted road through pastures with a few grazing cows and horses to Ho’okeena Beach.  We had targeted this beach as a camping spot for two reasons; first, we had read good things about the friendliness and cleanliness of this beach since operation of the facilities was ceded from the county to a local non-profit in 2009.  Second, its protected cove created a shelter for dolphins to rest during the day.  This made it a prime spot to be able to view and swim with wild dolphins without having to pay what the Kona hotels charged to swim with their own captive dolphins.  

Rebecca finds her king(s)

True to that, moments after we tucked the van into the last remaining spot in the sand lot and found our way to the beach, we made our first dolphin sighting.  It would be the first of several at Ho’okeena, and even though this sighting paired dolphins with whales, not to mention a gorgeous setting sun, there was something in our future that would eclipse it.

At times I feel Rebecca loves dolphins more than she loves me